Terrafirma Travels

Sat 25 Jan: No Northern lights last night despite a good forecast. Probably a good thing, as we needed the sleep after 12k steps yesterday. Late breakfast, the usual 3 or 4 courses, then entry to the very beautiful port of Ornes, for a ten minute stop. The icy mountains around were layered into the distance, dark against the occasional splash of gold sunlight. As we left, we passed a small island nearby where several people were waving madly. It is such a simple thing, strangers waving at strangers, such a small but lovely connection. Then on past more towering mountains, in these deep icy waters, until the ceremony of crossing the arctic circle was held outside. A member of crew dressed as Neptune in beard, crown and furry robe, and iced water was poured down the necks of anyone who volunteered- not including us, who watched from an upper deck, dry and warm.  Early lunch to make way for the next two hour stop at Bodo. We put on more layers than ever and as we looked out from the ...

Slept much better last night. Both exhausted. Nic did go to local food testing at 2130 (aged lamb) but declined the aquavit - the law does not allow them to give away alcohol. Getting into the 4 course breakfast: vitamin shot; porridge; egg, sausage, meatball; toast & jam. Bit of a scrum, though, think everyone is later today. Trondheim fjord appears out of dawn around 0830 - low hills area, no jagged cliffs. Into Trondheim at 0950. We had already been on deck to wave madly with flags at Polarys, a Hurtigruten going the other way.  Out quickly to walk into town. We eschewed the excursion which charges £80 for a bus ride and commentary. Whereas Alesund felt very touristy, this feels like a proper working city. 15% of the population are students. We spent time in the enormous cathedral, quite reminiscent of Exeter.  The shopping pavements were clear but compacted old snow elsewhere; we were glad of our spikes bought yday that slip over our boots. We viewed the Crown Jewels i...

Our first proper day on the boat started early, despite the fact that neither of us slept very much due to noise and hard beds. (We'll get used to it, also we were overstimulated.) A breakfast of several courses set us up for a debark into Alesund, and a walk around the harbour and up to a viewpoint at the (closed) city museum, which had 1865 photos outside, a charming grey cat and the first covered lifeboat in its grounds, a small affair which had, unbelievably, sailed to America in 1904. We eschewed the 418-step climb to a more famous viewpoint, and set off for the Museum of Norwegian Art Nouveau, a glorious collection of furniture, stained glass and jewellery which set Lesley's heart racing.  Then it was back to the ship for lunch of fish and many salads, and a rest for sore feet. We gathered enough energy to set off again, walked to a vintage shop and cafe, resisted temptation to buy things that would not fit in the case, and trundled back to the ship. Lesley was running ...

22 Jan 25 Filled up on Premier breakfast plus a couple of pocket items, effectively free with the meal deal. Do love a deal. (Not like Trump, ok! Btw, it's >24 hrs since Inauguration so where's the solution, eh, Trumpski?). Did Wordle in 2, an auspicious start. Norwegian bag drop brilliant, though there's always that <sings> 'when will I see you again' moment as the bag is swallowed into the maws of the system. Nic has seen how baggage is handled in the automated systems below decks at T5 and Manchester, and it ain't pretty. Security didn't have any plastic bags, asked a man who said don't need them now and leave liquids in bag! So why is all the signage still up, eh? No queue though, all very efficient, so forgave them. Airside is fairly heaving as usual, and Nic's conscience is troubled, but it's only our 3rd flight in 5 years. Flight uneventful, clear skies over Norway. Flybus to Hurtigruten terminal did tour of city inc. Bryggen so n...

Flight is tomorrow morning so came up today. A right-wing Trump-supporting taxi driver - I changed the subject to electric cars. 1015 train to Reading, leisurely change to direct albeit stopping train to Gatwick. The Premier Inn is cheek by jowl with North Terminal, all very convenient. We even had the Premier meal deal and it was good, cos there's nothing airside at North Terminal - and we didn't fancy the noise and bustle of South.

25th: after 9am 5 min swim off slip drove 1030-1200 to Porthtowan. Eco camp site scruffy, almost empty, no staff. Free parking on front. Walk NW on SW Coastal. 16-1900 dinner in Unicorn. Experiment we won't repeat, cos pay twice normal for a card, a cracker, a lot of noise and slow service albeit with a smile. Tables were separated so no new friends, and Nic wouldn't have heard them anyway. Coffee & books in the van. 26th: a van arrived with noisy dog at 2am. Tried the Eco composting toilets, rather damp and breezy but served a purpose. Better use Carnon Downs in future. Having done Porthtowan, went to next village, Perranporth. Much bigger beach, even bigger surfing honeypot. Everyone and his dog out for walk or swim. Elevenses in van, repeat at beach cafe. Despite calm weather for 2 days, and it is ludicrously warm at 11-12°, the surf is big here. 7,000 steps later we have a light lunch in the van in the long stay car park - no view, all other parks full. Heading home for...

A slow getting up after a rainy night. Lesley slept poorly partly due to a very vocal owl that was weirdly close to the van.  The inside of the van was quite damp. We turned the heater up high and hoped the curtains would dry. Porridge and coffee, books and the very clean facilities. No shower as we forgot to bring a towel. Off the site about half ten to the nearby National Trust site at Trelissick. The house was closed but we had a good walk around the very impressive gardens, including a view of the waters where we once moored Sirena IV.  Thank heaven it had stopped raining. The trees were amazing, some very rare and enormous tropical trees and many very mature tree ferns. Definitely worth another visit.  Had our own packed lunch in the van and set off for another NT place, Cotehele on the Tamar, as a last part of our rather wet minibreak. Part of the house was open, with an amazing Garland that they have made every year since the 50s. So much better than a blingy Chris...