Terrafirma Travels

Friday was a quiet day, starting with flurries of snow at breakfast. Soon after, there was a ceremony outside, as we passed the globe-shaped marker of the Arctic circle, heading south towards Trondheim. This time it wasn't water down the neck, but a spoonful of cod liver oil down the throat, though at least we get to keep the Hurtigruten spoon. Lesley had a call with the company's PR guy, for a piece she will write for FOOC. There was a certain amount of sitting about with books, until it was time for the Bridge Visit. About 15 passengers crowded on to the bridge, while the ship was moored at Sandnessjoen. We were shown the navigation screens, radar, helm controls and the docking station on the port side. The Captain revealed he will retire next year aged 70, and he is v sad that his ship will be removed from her current service. Then an alarm rang and we were politely given orders to leave the bridge, as they were about to set off.  Cue the usual generous buffet lunch. We pa...

Up just after 6, breakfast as soon as the doors open at 7, down the ramp at 8 into Harstad and the 'Taste of Vesteralen' excursion. A promise of 1hr45m on the road and a coach full made us wonder about our choice. But it was great (as long as you deep breathe through people being sooo slow getting off and on the bus!), First up just outside snowy Harstad was the Trondenes Church: northernmost stone church in the world (everything's been northernmost something the last 3 days!); stone font pre 13th century; alterpiece pre-reformation; lovely short service from young, modern priest/vicar.  200 slippery metres to Trondenes Historical Center where we had a talk in a hut on medieval life from a suitably dressed lady and a black cat (not hers!). The very modern museum was interesting on living in 500-800 AD. Everyone back on the bus and drove across the saddle of the island past frozen lakes and gelid upper reachs of fjords and even a few reindeer,  with a constant background of ...

Wednesday started with more juddering after all the night-time juddering, as we briefly visited small ports. At least we managed to shower while in port, which makes it easier. Post breakfast there was a fierce storm with black clouds, white horses and freezing rain. Fun to watch from inside, until the storm receded as we steamed into Hammerfest, past a large gas facility.  We left the ship for a bus, booked to carry us the short distance into town. It was very icy underfoot and we certainly needed our spikes on the hard-packed ice. First came the church, which sadly was just about to hold a funeral, so we caught a brief glimpse before being turned away.  We cautiously walked to the museum, but didn't have enough time left to explore it properly, so we grabbed a hot chocolate in the cafe instead. The museum shop had part set up like 1930s. Hammerfest is a large town of 10k people, with many hotels, modern buildings and offices, much of it focused on the energy industry. It fe...

A very flat sea, as we round the northernmost land and turn south. Most of the sea has been surprisingly flat above the Arctic Circle. As we approach Kirkenes, our turnaround point, the ship drives through some sea ice. The forecast air temp is -7°C. There were four excursions in Kirkenes, but we had done ours yday, so we let the crowds go before wrapping up and walking into town. Lovely crisp, clean snow underfoot and everywhere. No wind, so it didn't feel too cold. Lesley needed her lambswool mitts and Nic's electric gloves are doing great work. We stumbled (not literally) across a tour group so listened to a bit about the Russians ejecting the Nazis from this strategic location as we gazed at the memorial.  The church wasn't open, and was a disappointing 1950s concrete affair, the wooden one having been bombed. After a walk around the very quiet town centre we had a hot chocolate in the Centrum cafe. This could become a landside theme.  Next was the memorial to all mothe...

Early breakfast, few people around. Made sandwiches for our lunch btw excursions. Up to the lounge with big windows on deck 7, the top. Watched a 10 minute call at Havoysund, surely the smallest port we've called at. They are so efficient.  Btw 0830 and 0930 is a perfect 'blue hour', before the sun reluctantly rises. P ink light cast over the white and black rocky islands to either side.  The land here is mostly deserted, barren, snow-covered rock. Really does feel like a wilderness, finally. Sadly the ship's windows are dirty, but looking out the opposite side to the sunrise, and sitting back from them, the view is splendid. First outing today at 11am, a visit to two fishing villages. On to a coach at Honningsvag - very snowy wilderness around us. Saw the drying racks for stockfish. We are now above 71 degrees north, at the top of the world. Passed a fjord with cold dark waters, which was an emergency harbour in bad weather. Saw the swimming beach. In summer, they call...

26 Jan: Decided last night to sign up for the city excursion so could reach places on mainland not walkable. Felt we've done enough route marches - cabin to restaurant seems quite enough at the moment. Slow morning after good sleep. V interesting lecture on Sami people history & culture by the amazing Laura. Also got some reading done - online Guardian and book - while watching the increasingly snowy hills slide by. Unfortunately the excursion was disappointing. The cable car, the main attraction, was cancelled due to high wind -although there was little wind at harbour level. The Arctic Cathedral seemed rather soulless. Everyone back on the bus! Waiting. Coughing passengers. Replacement attraction was Polar Museum which was very good - could have spent much longer there reading about expeditions. Such hard living. They laud The Polar Bear King, Henry Rudi, who killed 713 polar bears and adopted cubs which he sold to Zoos. Strange kind of hero. Then we shuffled along to the Ful...