Harstad-Sortland - Stokmarknes

Up just after 6, breakfast as soon as the doors open at 7, down the ramp at 8 into Harstad and the 'Taste of Vesteralen' excursion. A promise of 1hr45m on the road and a coach full made us wonder about our choice. But it was great (as long as you deep breathe through people being sooo slow getting off and on the bus!), First up just outside snowy Harstad was the Trondenes Church: northernmost stone church in the world (everything's been northernmost something the last 3 days!); stone font pre 13th century; alterpiece pre-reformation; lovely short service from young, modern priest/vicar. 

200 slippery metres to Trondenes Historical Center where we had a talk in a hut on medieval life from a suitably dressed lady and a black cat (not hers!).

The very modern museum was interesting on living in 500-800 AD. Everyone back on the bus and drove across the saddle of the island past frozen lakes and gelid upper reachs of fjords and even a few reindeer,  with a constant background of ranging snowy mountains, to Refsnes.

On the 20 min ferry across to Flesnes we had a welcome snack and coffee/hot chocolate. We took the old (ice-packed) scenic coast road along to the bridge at Sortland, and waited in a layby until we could drive over exactly as our ship was passing underneath. Very photogenic. Clever Hurtigruten. 

We could have had 20 mins in Sortland, but we seemed to be buried in the port and we were keen for our lunch. So was everyone else, and unusually we had to queue for a place to sit. Patryk who organises the seating looked hassled. Straight after lunch was Stokmarknes and 45 mins only in the Hurtigruten Museum which is a retired ship in a glass building. Wonderful. Could have spent much longer, especially in the beautiful 1950s lounges, on the Bridge, and the post room (circular panorama).

We discovered in the Officers Talk that the ships stopped doing the mail just a few years ago; the roads to the north have improved,  probably with EU money. Had a rest in our cabin and brandy tea - a new invention, as we try to get through our litre bottle of duty free. We're going to give what is left to Laura (who can't touch it while she's onboard). A quiet evening while many people went ashore at Svolvaer - we did it on the way up so gave it a swerve. Played Scrabble again in the lovely quiet Trollfjord lounge, L is 2 to 1 up in the series. Dashed outside to wave energetically at a Hurtigruten ship going the other way, as is the tradition, but they didn't wave back the miserable @#%&s.