Cloud day

Started late from Valentia campsite, driving the narrow twisty roads to Glanleam house and gardens, seat of the Knights of Kerry, only to find a large off-putting notice at the gate saying CLOSED. Do NOT enter. Given it is advertised as one of Valentia's highlights, this was a bit annoying. A local told us it's been closed for years.

After a seven-point turn in the narrow drive, we headed for the Heritage Centre, a small museum with a room dedicated to the groundbreaking (or sea-breaking?) Atlantic Telegraph Cables which were installed around Valentia in the 19th century.

They truly were the world-wide-web of their day. We saw a rather fulsome painting depicting how the US and Europe were united by the telegraph cable.

Locals were employed by the cable companies, and even preserved jugs and chamber pots bearing the company name.

We decided to leave the island to follow the Ring of Skellig drive. Unfortunately the low cloud came down so close, we could see only a few dozen yards ahead on the bendy, one-track road.

Fog lights came on, and beyond the hedge on the left lay a white sea of cloud. No scenery, no viewpoints, just stale whiteness.

It improved a little as we lost height, and we ended up parked by a fine beach, with roaring white surf and the usual canopy of low cloud. The nearby Driftwood cafe supplied us with a big helping of parmesan fries and a hot apple and ginger drink. We sat in comfort in the back and read books. This is what vanlife is all about.

We completed the Skellig Ring, still drowned in mist, crossed the bridge and drove the back route along Valentia island,  still in cloud. We had a walk around the harbour, saw a ferry crossing to the mainland. We inspected the moored yachts, as we always do, and gazed at the large RNLI lifeboat. 

Back to the campsite for zero beer and peanuts. Dinner tonight will be pizza ordered from the local eco cafe.  We may even walk to the nearest pub for a swift half.